Customer Jonathan Cross Visits Tanzania with Us

Jonathan Picking Cherries

In September of 2008 I was fortunate enough to travel with Mark Stell of Portland Roasting to Tanzania to provide an outsiders view to what may become a standard in the portfolio of Portland Roasting- the ultimate coffee safari.   After our arrival at Kilmanjaro airport my trip started at Leon and Aideen Christianikis’ coffee farm that borders the Usa River near Arusha. From there we headed north and made the three and a half hour ride to our primary destination, Acacia Hills.   The ride was a true experience.

After leaving the hustle and bustle of Arusha it became apparent the vastness, beauty and remoteness that is Tanzania. Passing incredible scenery such as salt lakes, termite mounds and local villages inhabited by some of the many Mesai tribes. The Mesai are herders still roaming the lands in East Africa. They are characterized by the typical “Mesaia” blankets that they use as clothing. Unfortunately this time of year is the dry season. Locals seem unphased by the dust blinding them as our vehicle passed. The Acacia trees dotted the landscape and appeared comforting with their flat tops and extended branches that provided shade to those in need.

As we got closer to Acacia Hills the brush became thicker and elevation became higher. The farm borders the Ngorongoro Crater. Often called ‘Africa’s Eden’ and the ‘8th Natural Wonder of the World. It is one of many national conservation areas in Tanzania. Within the crater rim, large herds of water buffalo, zebra and wildebeest graze while everything from Flamingos, elephants, and hyenas go about there daily fight for existence. Next to the Ngorongoro crater is the town of Oldeani that is at the base of the volcano that bears the same name. The Oldeani and Ngorongoro mountains have coffee estates that hug the slopes of these mountains.

After turning of the main road we followed a less desirable dirt road that would eventually end at the farm. Acacia Hills is perhaps one of the most remote yet unique coffee plantations in the whole of Tanzania.   Its high elevation and closeness to the conservation area provide views that are breathtaking. We are greeted by rows and rows of coffee trees whose branches are weighted with the beautiful red cherries waiting to be harvested. The owners’ house sits perched high above the valley floor. Mark advised me that the house, (as well as other buildings on the property), are undergoing a major renovation inside and out with a large wrap around deck planned for the main house as well as other thoughtful changes. Mark and Leon have a great vision in getting the farm back to its original luster, and it will be well worth all the hard work.

While touring the farm I was able to see exactly what it takes to produce a perfect bean. From the picking of the ripe cherries to the pulping, washing and drying, to the tedious work the local villagers do to select the beans with no imperfections, it was amazing to see what it takes to have the distinction of being Farm Friendly Direct.

While staying at the farm, we took a day excursion to Lake Eyasi, a salt lake situated between the Rift Valley’s Eyasi escarpment and the Kidero Mountains. Although by car the ride was a brutal one, Mark assured me that it would be quicker once they were able to find a shorter route possibly by ATV once the farm was able to accommodate them.   The Lake and surrounding campsite seemed like an oasis as we approached. Palm trees and a tropical feel that seemed to come out of nowhere.   Although the salt Lake appeared quite large it was only about one foot deep at this time of year.

I can’t list everything I did on this trip but I can say that the trip was a pleasant one. I thank Mark for giving me a rare, inside look at the process of getting the coffee bean from farm to cup.   And a special thanks to Leon and Aideen for their generous hospitality during my stay. I highly recommend a trip like this to wake up the senses and make you appreciate things that much more.